Walk high, walk slow. Asheville, NCIndependent since 2018The Switchback letter
The Annapurna emblem The AnnapurnaMountains · Trails · High Places
About the journal

The people behind the pages

The Annapurna is a small, independent mountain-travel journal published from Asheville, North Carolina — for readers who plan their years around long walks in high places.

Our story

It started with a borrowed map and a badly planned first trek.

In 2018, after twenty years of walking other people's routes, editor Daniel Mercer came home to Asheville from the Annapurna Circuit with a full notebook and a specific frustration. Everything written about the world's great treks seemed to fall into two camps: breathless bucket-list content assembled by people who had plainly never carried a pack, or technical trip reports that read like tax filings. Nothing captured what a long walk actually is — the logistics and the weather and the teahouse conversations and the slow rearrangement of your priorities somewhere around day six.

So he started writing it down properly, one route at a time, and The Annapurna grew from a private field notebook into the journal you are reading. We named it after the mountain that taught us the most — and we kept the notebook's rules. We walk every mile we describe. We pay for every bed and bus ourselves. And we write it slowly, after the boots have dried, when the useful truths have had time to separate from the trail euphoria.

Daniel Mercer, founder and editor of The Annapurna, on a Blue Ridge overlook
What we believe

Mountains are a practice, not a checklist

The trekking world is drowning in superlatives — epic, ultimate, must-do — and we think the language has consequences. Treat a trail as an item to be completed and you will rush it, photograph it, rank it and forget it. Treat it as a practice — something you show up for, at the mountain's pace, on the mountain's terms — and the same trail will keep teaching you things for the rest of your life. Our guides are long because trails are long. We would rather describe one route in ten honest pages than ten routes in one breathless one.

We also believe the walking world's best infrastructure is human. The teahouse families of the Marsyangdi valley, the hut guardians of the Alps, the minshuku hosts of the Kii Peninsula — these people and their institutions are what make the great walks possible, and our guides treat them as the main event rather than the accommodation. When you walk these routes, you are a guest in a working landscape. We try to write like guests who were raised properly.

How we report

Every route in this journal was walked in full by the writer credited on the piece — full stages, side trips, wrong turns and all. We take our own photographs and our own notes, we record prices as we pay them, and where regulations shift (permits, guide requirements, park reservations), we say plainly what we verified and when, and we tell you to double-check before you commit money. When we haven't walked a variant, we say so. When a famous trail has real problems — crowding, road damage, booking chaos — the problems go in the guide, in full, next to the reasons we still walked it.

We update guides when we rewalk a region or when readers send corrections that check out. The date at the top of every article is real, and the corrections address in our editorial policy goes to a human who answers.

How the journal is funded

Simply, and we would rather you know exactly how: The Annapurna is supported by its readers and by clearly-labeled display advertising — nothing else. We carry no affiliate links, we sell no gear, we book no trips, and we take no commissions from tour operators, lodges or equipment brands. No company can pay to appear in our guides, and nobody outside the editorial team sees an article before it is published. When we recommend a refuge or a route, the only transaction behind the recommendation is that we paid to be there, like you will. The full version of this promise lives on our editorial policy page.

The masthead

A small rope team of writers and editors, currently spread between the Blue Ridge and the Andes.

Daniel Mercer

Founder & Editor. Twenty-five years of long trails on four continents, beginning with the Appalachian ridges an hour from his Asheville front door. Dan writes most of our trek guides, edits everything, and maintains the journal's luggage-scale discipline with the zeal of a convert.

Rosa Gallardo

Contributing Editor, South America. Raised in Mendoza in view of the Andes, Rosa covers Patagonia and the high Andes for the journal. She has walked Torres del Paine in every month of the season and holds strong opinions about wind, empanadas and booking systems, in that order.

June Okafor

Copy & Research. June fact-checks every stage time, price and permit rule in these pages, and has never once let "it was probably about noon" survive an edit. She walks the Blue Ridge every weekend and is training for her first Alpine circuit.

Our promises

The same three commitments printed on our home page, because they bear repeating.

No. 1

We walk every mile

No compiled guides, no rewritten press trips, no routes described from a desk. If it's in the journal, one of us carried a pack over it.

No. 2

We pay our own way

Beds, buses, permits and dinners — purchased at the same counter you'll use, at the same prices we print.

No. 3

We tell you the hard parts

Crowds, costs, altitude and bureaucracy get reported with the same care as the sunrises. You plan better when we complain honestly.